Pilarski Marsh Pot

Well I had planned to continue detailing the dinner party menu. Yet as the saying goes, the best laid plans of mice and men….After a night of no sleep, a day of harsh science, cold numbers, spreadsheets, balance sheets and business plans I was ready for an escape or a homicide. Fortunately for the sake of my still clean criminal conviction record (convicted? Well… no, never convicted…..) my good friend, poet Patrick Pilarski’s latest poetry book arrived like a refreshing Northern breeze. Check out Patrick here: Patrick M. Pilarski.  Book in hand I hoofed it down to the Wine Toad. The Toad is the alcoholic equivalent of Alice’s little white rabbit hole with a direct line into the Tea Party (the Mad Hatter one, not the political one).  Patrick writes versions of haiku and other poetry. Doc’s grasp of Haiku:

Oddly Constructed

With resolute imagery

Dreams beckon, Night falls

Well, I may not write them but I really enjoy reading a good haiku with a glass of vino– (and I know Chef E does as well-another talented poet and Chef!) who doesn’t? It makes me feel so left bank, so la rive gauche. I started to read the first series of poems, The Netley Marsh Poems. I was immediately taken away; I could smell the brackwater and see the images of pelicans and herons. Being who I am, I immediately started to visualize the delicious critters there as well. Clams and Mussels in white wine; it can be so good but often it is so insipid.  Yet since I have access to these little marsh treasures, I set out to make a marsh meal worthy of my friend’s literary oeuvre. So, with all due respect here’s the Pilarski Marsh Pot, which you must serve with hot grilled bread slathered with aioli.

• 2 Tbsp shallot, chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, chopped fine
• 1/4 cup chopped fennel (optional)
• 1 piece lemon grass
• 2 sprigs thyme
• 2 sprigs oregano
• 1tsp finely chopped hot pepper
• 1/3 cup seafood or light chicken stock
• 2/3 cup white wine
• Clams and mussels
• 1 Tbsp butter
• 2 Tbsp parsley, chopped
• Juice of ½ lemon
• Grilled Bread and aioli (see previous aioli recipe)

In a large pot or sautoir heat some olive oil and lightly sauté the shallot. Add the garlic (fennel if adding), herbs and hot pepper (but not the parsley). Cook for about 30 seconds in the oil. Add the stock, wine and shellfish. Cover and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cook until the shellfish open, indicating they are done. Remove the shellfish and place in a bowl. Remove the herb sprigs and lemon grass and discard. Bring the remaining sauce to a boil and reduce by half so it thickens slightly. Reduce the heat, add the butter and pour over the shellfish. Garnish with lemon juice and parsley. Serve with aioli slathered bread. I also recommend serving this with a helping of Huge Blue, Patrick’s book-go getcha some haiku.

The Clams and Mussels/ Season'd with wine summer kiss'd...

...Most Nobly Enjoy'd

Completing Round 1

The concept for finishing the Mixed Seafood Grille was pretty simple. I had access to incredible fresh and delicious product so first, do no harm. I simply grilled the sweet scallops and shrimp with salt, pepper and olive oil. I split the fresh Maine lobster in half and cooked each half inside the shell on the grill with the same. I put together a very fresh relish made with all the local produce; the same roadside tomatoes and avocados, fresh herbs and a fresh mango for a little sweetness along with a finely diced pepper (sans membrane and seeds) for a little heat. By placing the relish on the side, diners got to taste the seafood with as much or as little relish as they wanted-naked to smothered. This added a little complexity and layering of different complementary flavors while allowing the shellfish to star via a simple preparation.

Grilled Seafood Mix Toping (Seafood grilled with salt, pepper, olive oil)

• Juice 1 lemon
• 1 tsp lemon zest
• 1 tsp oregano, thyme, tarragon
• 3 Roma tomatoes, seeded and chopped
• 2 avocados, chopped
• 1/3 cup red onion
• ½ cup mango
• 3 tbs olive oil
• 1 ½ tbs balsamic vinegar
• 1 clove garlic
• 1 tbs dill
• ½ cup fennel bulb
• 1 tbs hot pepper-membrane and seeds removed
• 2 tbs parsley

Combine all the ingredients. Serve to the side of the grilled seafood.

 

Round 1: Oven Roasted Tomatoes with “Pasta” and Fire Roasted Tomato Sauce

 

Seafood Grille over "Pasta" with Oven Roasted Tomatoes and Fire Roasted Tomato Sauce

Here was a critical component of the first dish; Mixed Seafood Grill of Fresh Gulf Shrimp, Sea Scallops and Maine Lobster accompanied by “Pasta” with Fire Roasted Tomato Sauce. The “pasta” is actually just veggies. Today we’ll cover the “pasta” which makes a very nice side dish anytime. The fire roasted tomato sauce is that awesome version we posted about a week ago from Chef Ryan at http://cajunchefryan.rymocs.com/blog2/recipes/fire-roasted-tomato-sauce/.

• 3 each, medium size, carrot, yellow squash, zucchini
• 1 pint grape tomatoes
• Chef Ryan’s Fire Roasted Tomato Sauce
• Parmesan, shaved and parsley, chopped for garnish

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Place the tomatoes in a roasting pan and gently douse with olive oil, salt and pepper. Bake for 30-45 minutes. Meanwhile, cut the vegetables Julienne style. Heat some salted water to a boil and prepare an ice bath. Blanch the vegetables for about 15 seconds in the water, then immerse in the ice bath to stop any further cooking (you can do this step ahead of time). Heat some olive oil in a sauté pan.  Add the vegetables and quickly heat with the sauce. Remove and top with garnish.  Tomorrow we will cover the seafood grille and relish.

An Ancient Tradition

Breaking Bread with new friends...

In the  old days, the really old days, people would share a meal together as a way of introduction and community. That rarely occurs anymore these days; it’s often a business dinner, a fast food pick-up or a more intimate occasion when we go out these days. We are lucky to get the immediate family around the table, let alone have an opportunity to meet & greet strangers. Yet I had a chance to step through the gates of time and relive that ancient tradition of “breaking bread”. I got the opportunity to cook for some folks, share their hospitality and warmth and get to know them in the elder tradition of community and fellowship. I love my new friends! I literally started the meal our by “breaking bread”, so here’s the ever so simple and timeless bruschetta starter

Bruschetta

• 3 sour dough mini-baguettes or 1 large baguette

Topping

• 2 cups seeded and chopped Roma tomatoes (about 3 tomatoes)
• 1 tsp chopped capers
• 1 clove chopped garlic
• 1 tsp oregano
• 1 tsp thyme
• 1-1.5 oz basil
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 1.5 tbs balsamic vinegar
• Juice ½ lemon
• 4 oz fresh mozzarella

Cut the baguettes in half and liberally coat with good olive oil. Grill the bread. While the bread is grilling combine all the toppings except the cheese in a bowl. This can be done several hours ahead of time to allow the flavors to come together. Place the mozzarella on the bread and melt the cheese under the broiler. Once the cheese has melted, add the toping, season and serve. This was served with a  Vernaccia di San Gimignano, an inexpensive (around $10-12 per bottle) but delicious white from the village of San Gimignano in Italy.

...Italian Style!

New Items

Testing some new creations on folks I don’t know at production tonight. Stay tuned for the recipes and responses to follow!

Ray Ray Simple Sammy

 

One great benefit of yesterday’ preparation was the leftover aioli. A chance encounter with a store that had some Westphalian ham and simply prepared vision of decadence was revealed. I am sharing this more in the spirit of great eats with great friends than actually dispensing any useful culinary advice; although making this sandwich could be a whole episode on Rachel Ray. At least the aioli from yesterday requires some redeeming effort. But when you get something great like this ham paired with fresh bread and fresh accoutrements, well it’s a combination that is  hard to beat (especially with a glass of wine). But wait-what is this piece of porky pleasure? What is Westphalian ham? A History of Food by Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat relates that

“(a)lthough the Gauls are sometimes said to have invented ham, it does not actually seem to have been a specialty that originated in what is now France. The forests of Westphalia contained herds of pigs which roamed almost free, and were famous for the flavor of their flesh. Westphalian ham, dry-salted and then smoked as it still is today, was very popular with the Romans and making the fortunes of Germanic tribesmen 2000 years ago. The poet Martial was one of many who liked it. Cato recommends treating the hams from Italian pigs in the same way….”

Ah those Romans, is it any wonder they knew how to throw a party? The Westphalian swine dine on a diet rich in acorns, much like the prized Iberian hams. The Westphalian hams are then smoked with Beechwood and juniper branches giving it a distinct flavor. A fresh baked roll, a little aioli, Westphalian ham, garden fresh lettuce and tomato and a dusting of parmesan cheese and a glass of wine; it can make the world so right I even begin to think Rachel may have a point of wisdom here…nah.

Octopussy Balls

I’ve always been a voracious reader. When I picked up Ian Fleming’s James Bond novel, Octopussy, around age eight and asked my mother what this was, she replied it was a book I wasn’t going to read. Today of course, the Mario Bros. have more graphically animated encounters than one could ever imagine Bond having back in the days of ink and paper; such is the ever upward progress of humanity. Perhaps it is this episode of parental denial dwelling in the dark recess of my already tortured mind that causes me to seek out and consume this cephalopod. Perhaps it is that it just tastes delicious. Whatever the reason, the consequence is this fantastic treat which results from a Mediterranean twist to the Japanese classic, takoyaki (literally octopus ball). The takoyaki is like a kind of octopus fritter, often served with a soy-mayonnaise type topping. It is Japanese bar food. I got some octopus (often very cheaply obtained) with traditional takoyaki in mind, but my conversations with a Greek friend left me longing for the Aegean; hence the result.

Most octopuses (yes, it is octopuses. The root is Greek, not Latin. If it were a Latin root you would use octopi. See how much you learn on this blog) you buy is frozen. Mine was a couple of pounds, so here is how we softened it up so it would be tender and not tough. Defrost it in the refrigerator. Then:

• Boil for 8-10 minutes
• Remove and whack off head (not any real goodness here)
• Place in a Dutch oven or other large heavy covered pot) at 200 degrees F and cook with herbs for about 5 hours. Here I used sprigs of oregano, thyme, fennel tops, fennel seed, lemon juice, dill, crushed whole garlic cloves and onion. The octopus will absorb these flavors during this stage.
• Cool
• Remove any gelatinous leg fat
• You can keep it in the fridge for week at this point.

Since I like a little char, I quickly seared the leg pieces over high heat. Now they are ready for the fritters.

• 1 ½ cup of octopus prepared as above, medium dice
• 2 tsp baking powder
• 1 tsp turmeric
• 1 Tbsp thyme
• 1Tbsp dill
• 1 Tbsp oregano
• 1 Tbs parsley
• 1 Tbsp lemon juice
• 1 tsp cayenne
• 1 tsp garlic salt
• 1 tsp ground pepper
• 1 egg
• 11 oz (~ 2.0 cups) AP flour
• 1 cup buttermilk
• 2 egg whites beat to stiff peaks

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Mix all the dry ingredients (flour, baking powder, turmeric, cayenne, pepper and garlic salt). Add the finely chopped herbs. Mix the egg and the buttermilk together. Add the egg/buttermilk mixture and octopus to the dry ingredients. Mix well. Gently fold in the egg whites. The batter is thick and tacky at this point. You can use a small scoop ( I just used my hands) to drop an amount in a mini-muffin pan to fill it about ¾ of the way up. Bake for 15 minutes until golden brown. You can also deep fry these at 375 degrees F for a more traditional takoyaki or fritter.  Serve with the aioli dipping sauce (recipe follows). This was incredible with a chilled unoaked Domaine Chandon Pinot Noir Rose. Makes 24 to 30 fritters.

Aioli dipping sauce

• 2 egg yolks
• 8 cloves of garlic, medium chop then crushed in mortar and pestle
• 2 Tbs of lemon juice
• 3/4 cup good quality olive oil
• 1 tsp salt

After crushing the garlic into a paste add the egg yolks. Slowly add the olive oil a little at a time, stirring constantly to form the emulsion; you can do this by hand or in a food processor or blender. Add the lemon juice and salt.

Trust Me-I’m a Doctor

I am a big believer in verification. As The Buddha said, believe nothing even if he said it, if it does not agree with your own experience or common sense. Doctors actually telling you that you can/should have a glass or two of vino, as I did in the recent guest post at Partners in Wine, can be a bit controversial. Which means I get slack about it. Not to say, well, I told you so-but, well I told you so. You should trust me, I’m a Doctor. Here’s brand new data saying what by now you already know if you paid attention. But take note, you may need to educate your personal “health professional”.

New research published in the Journal of the American College of Cardiology lends “credence to the idea that light to moderate alcohol intake appears to be good for the heart.” In a meta analysis which combines eight studies encompassing 16,351 people with a history of heart disease the results showed  that the “ meta-analysis on cardiovascular mortality showed a J-shaped pooled curve with a significant maximal protection (average 22%) by alcohol at approximately 26 g/day. In the meta-analysis on mortality for any cause, J-shaped pooled curves were observed in the overall analysis (average maximal protection of 18% in the range of 5 to 10 g/day) and in all subgroups according to either the type of patients or the characteristics of the studies. ” This ranges correlate to about 1-3 drinks/day.

A completely different study looking at data from 1987 through 2002 found that in “9 nationally representative samples of U.S. adults, light and moderate alcohol consumption were inversely associated with CVD mortality, even when compared with lifetime abstainers, but consumption above recommended limits was not.” The volumes consumed in this study showing benefit were about 1 drink for women and two for men.

Now that’s something to drink about!

Proper Poaching

Grilled Key West Grouper and Blackened Florida Snapper Sandwiches with Caramelized Onions and Fennel topped with Fire Roasted Tomato and Garlic Sauce

All chefs, all cooks for that matter, must learn proper poaching technique. Now I am not referring to cooking at 165-180 degrees F in some liquid like we did for the shrimp. No, I am talking about stealing really good ideas and recipes. Every good chef does it and calls it “inspired by….”  With that in mind I came across a recipe for a fire roasted tomato sauce by my good friend, Cajun Chef Ryan. It was just so damn good I couldn’t be inspired by it, I just had to use it. So with all due proper credit here is his recipe which can be found at:

http://cajunchefryan.rymocs.com/blog2/

Fire Roasted Tomato Sauce

If you do not have a wood burning stove in your house then of course, fire roasting the Roma tomatoes on a pan in an outdoor charcoal grill over indirect heat will impart a smokier flavor, though the cooking time increases due to most grills having a lower temperature. Indirect heat on the charcoal grill means that you are setting up an outdoor oven, so to speak, where the coals are on one side of the grill, and the roasted product is on the other side. The indoor oven works just fine too.

In addition, if you are not fond of spiciness you can reduce or omit the white pepper and chili powder in the recipe also.

Ingredients Cooking Spray 12 Each Roma or plum tomatoes, halved 2 Tsp Garlic salt 2 Tsp White pepper 2 Tbsp Balsamic vinegar 2 Tsp Crystal hot sauce 2 Tsp Chili powder 2 Tsp Smoky paprika 2 Tbsp Fresh basil, chopped 1 Tbsp Fresh oregano, chopped 1 Tbsp Fresh Thyme, chopped

 

Procedure Steps        Note: Pre-heat oven to 400° F.
1.	Place halved tomatoes on a baking sheet coated with cooking spray. Season them with the garlic salt and white pepper. Place in the oven and roast for 30 minutes. If roasted in the pan on indirect heat on a charcoal grill double the cooking time.
2.	In the bowl of a food processor or blender, add 8 of the tomatoes (16 halves) with the remaining ingredients and process until smooth. Dice the remaining 4 (8 halves) tomatoes and fold into the sauce. Use the sauce for any preparation calling for Fire Roasted Tomato Sauce, reserve any leftover sauce for other uses.

As the saying goes “What has been is what will be, and what has been done is what will be done; there is nothing new under the sun”, but since I can’t leave well enough alone I did putz with the recipe (I added about a bulb of garlic to roast as well) a bit after the first batch (which was awesome) because of what I was serving it with; grilled fresh Florida Key West Grouper and Blackened Local Snapper sandwiches with caramelized onions and fennel. Once you have the sauce done, I simply seasoned the fish and grilled. I caramelized 1 medium onion and ½ bulb of fennel. So simple and so good; sometimes too many chefs don’t spoil the broth-they make it delicious!

Pan Seared Chilean Sea Bass over Wilted Arugula Salad with Spicy Coconut Sauce

Clearly I am no good at sponsoring contests. We have a winner. Rebecca (from the brilliant blog Chow and Chatter; http://www.chowandchatter.com/) guessed Cod. The fish is Chilean Sea Bass, also known as Patagonian toothfish, icefish and Antarctica Cod! Now before you go report me to PETA, let me say I have researched the “endangered” status of this fish. Here is what I can determine. While somewhat a victim of its own tastiness, the fish is not “endangered”. It is, however, under pressure from overfishing and  illegal poaching. Here is a remedy that lets you enjoy this ocean treasure:

• Purchase only Chilean Sea Bass that  is 100% certified non-poached. If your fishmonger can’t obtain your fish without proper papers, don’t purchase. Documentation  is currently available that tracks the fish through its entire shipment route; from the boat to your retailer during their entire shipment route.
• This documentation verifies that the Chilean Sea Bass has been caught in legal waters. They are of legal weight and size and they were caught by legally designated fishermen that have paid for a permit to catch Chilean Sea Bass by their government.
• Do NOT purchase Chilean Sea Bass that has not been certified. Responsible purchasing is the way to ensure that Chilean Sea Bass will be available to be enjoyed in perpetuity.

Now on to the tasty bits! This is a great “family” style meal or a great meal to present for a dinner party when you want a big platter in the center of the table to wow and impress. It is actually quite easy to make and has three components. Once your prep work is done (which you can do ahead of time) it is one hour from start time until you’re enjoying this beauty. I recommend a Gary Farrell Sauvignon Blanc, but you can also go for a nice Chilean Sauvignon Blanc to keep the theme consistent.

• 1 Chilean Sea Bass fillet, about 1.5-2.0 pounds
• 1 tsp smoked paprika
• 1 dozen Little Neck Clams
• 4-5 baby yellow squash , thinly sliced (about 1 pound)
• 2 Roma tomatoes, seeded and chopped
• 1 orange pepper, chopped
• 1 poblano pepper, finely diced
• 1 small onion, finely sliced
• 2 leeks, finely sliced (white parts only)
• ½ bulb of fennel, finely sliced (reserve top for garnish)
• 3.5 oz Shitake mushrooms, finely sliced
• 2 hot peppers split lengthwise
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme
• 2 sprigs fresh oregano
• 1 Tbs finely chopped ginger
• 1 Tbs finely chopped garlic
• 1 Tbs butter
• ½ cup sake
• Juice of ½ lemon
• 1 can coconut milk, 13.5 oz
• 2 tsp sesame oil
• 2 Tbs olive oil
• Salt to taste
• Fresh ground black pepper to taste

Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees F. Season the sea bass with salt, pepper and paprika and set aside. In an oven proof roasting dish place the squash, tomato, orange pepper and poblano pepper. Lightly coat with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Toss so the vegetables are evenly coated and distributed. Place in the oven to roast for 45 minutes. While the vegetables are roasting, heat some olive oil in a large sautoir pan (like a sauté pan but with high straight sides). Add the onions, leeks and fennel and cook over medium heat until soft, about 3-5 minutes. Add the ginger, garlic, mushrooms, hot peppers, thyme, oregano and butter. When the liquid has just about evaporated, add the clams, lemon juice and sake. Reduce the liquid by half. Add the coconut milk and sesame oil and reduce the liquid by half again. While that is reducing, heat some olive oil in a pan until smoking. Add the sea bass skin side down. Cook for 5-7 minutes depending on thickness. This produces a crispy skin. Flip and cook 3-5 minutes on the other side. While the fish is finishing, remove the roasted vegetables and place in a strainer to remove excess liquid. Add the hot vegetables to the arugula; this will cause it to quickly wilt. Plate the wilted arugula and vegetables on the bottom of the serving tray. Add the fish. Spoon the sauce over and around; conversely you can place the sauce next and place the fish on top. Garnish with the fennel top and finely chopped parsley if desired.