Forces of Nature

I had a lot to do; many errands and tasks to complete in the brief respite we know as a weekend. Yet, October had arrived. And with that arrival the very first coolness that is autumn.  Despite official decrees adhering to the equinox, autumn does not arrive until you can feel her, a cool caress; and hear her, a soft rustle and bustle as wind makes its way through wood; and see her, a patchwork of bright colors peering from within a monochrome curtain of green; and smell her, faintly earthy and dirty in a deliciously naughty way. The only thing left is to taste, and for that we made a dinner resplendent with the flavors and feel of fall. Yes, there was a lot to do and now there remains the same, but only a fool denies the forces of nature when she beckons….

 

Bolognese Sauce (served over home made roasted beet root pasta)

• 8 ounces finely chopped pancetta
• 2 cups onion, finely chopped
• 1 cup chopped carrots
• 1 cup chopped celery
• 3 cloves of garlic
• 1 tsp. salt
• ½ tsp. fresh ground black pepper
• 1/3 cup madeira
• 4 ounces red wine
• 1 Tbs. anchovy paste
• 1 Tbs. tomato paste
• 1 pound ground beef
• 1 pound ground veal
• Bouquet garni (6 sprigs oregano, 6 sprigs thyme, 3 sprigs parsley, 2 bay leaves)
• 1 (28 ounce) can pureed San Marzano tomatoes
• ½ cup heavy cream
• 1 cup milk
• Basil, chiffonade cut for garnish

In a separate small sauce pan reduce the cream by 1/3 over medium low heat. Render the pancetta in a large stockpot over medium heat. . Add the beef and veal, season with salt and pepper and brown the meats. Add the garlic, carrot, celery and onions and cook until softened, about 3 minutes; season with salt and pepper. Add the anchovy and tomato paste and cook for another minute. Add the Madeira and red wine and cook until almost all the liquid has evaporated. Add the tomatoes and bouquet garni and allow to simmer for about 3 hours. Periodically check and as the liquid evaporates add the milk until it is fully incorporated. After all the milk has been incorporated add the cream. Serve over pasta with basil garnish.

Chocolate Molten Cakes

Simply chocolate. Sometime you simply need chocolate. These are amazingly light on the palate but with a deep dense chocolate flavor due to the high percentage cacao chocolate used. It is chocolate, ’nuff said.

Champagne Sauce

By popular request, here is the recipe for both recent champagne sauces we posted (one with duck breast and one with butternur squash gnocchi) and the  one we  discussed on the recent NPR radio interview .

Chanterelle Mushroom Champagne Sauce

• 2 Tbs. shallot, finely minced
• 2 Tbs. butter
• 8 ounces of champagne
• 1 ounce dried chanterelle mushrooms
• 1 cup of heavy cream
• 1 ounce fresh champagne grapes
• ½ tsp. salt
• ¼ tsp. white pepper

Reconstitute the dried mushrooms with hot water then finely chop. Melt the butter over medium heat in a medium sauce pan. Soften the shallots in the butter, about 3 minutes. Add the champagne and mushrooms and cook until almost all the liquid has evaporated. Add the cream and the grapes and reduce by about a third, until the sauce has thickened; season with the salt and pepper.

For a basic champagne sauce omit the mushrooms and grapes. For the sage version we used on the butternut squash gnocchi, omit the mushrooms and grapes and add ¼ cup apple jack brandy along with the champagne, and 2 tsp. of finely minced sage leaf along with the shallot.

Right Now

Check out Dr. Mike’s latest article, exclusively for The Atlantic at:

Dr. Mike’s Atlantic Article

Check it, right now!

Fall Flavors

One of the great fall flavors I remember is lobster. Visiting Maine in the fall after the other tourists have left gives you the feel of a wilderness getting ready to rest. The leaves have changed and a jacket is definitely required after sundown. The air is damp and heavy with a mix of salt and earthy pine. You walk the streets after dark feeling the isolation, a feeling that everyone is out somewhere else having fun and you are here-alone. Then a noise grabs you and a light beckons. Soon you are out on a wharf surrounded by music, lights heat and steamed lobster; sweet and succulent. When my good friends at the fish market had a lobster sale-really ridiculously cheap this fall flavor was on the menu. This pan seared lobster was served with some incredible butternut squash gnocchi and a sage champagne sauce.

Brunch

Here’s a twist on the brunch classic of eggs benedict. Fresh Florida gulf shrimp, blackened with poached eggs and hollandaise. Served with a side  of bacon and chanterelle mushroom hash along with some home made pickled beets. You’ll want some bubbly to wash this one down!

Don’t Worry, Be Happy

Being angry can not only annoy those around you, it really can break your heart. At the recent Heart Failure Society of America meeting the results of a study was presented that examined over 13,000 participants, both men and women. It found that “high levels of anger were associated with a greater risk of developing heart failure.” A study published earlier examined several smaller studies and concluded that higher levels of anger were also associated with a greater risk for the development of coronary artery disease. So partake of the ageless wisdom of Bobby McFerrin, “Don’t worry, Be happy.” It could help save your heart.

The Atlantic

As a literary fan and literary want-to-be growing up, I always wondered how it would feel to have something published in a magazine like The Atlantic. It feels bloody great! Check out the article exclusively in the Atlantic at:

The Atlantic

A Taste of Fall

Here’s a recipe that speaks of fall: Pan-seared duck breast with chanterelle mushroom champagne sauce over sauteed spinach and pan fried new potatoes. The fall brings the harvest of grapes, and the champagne sauce here contains some champagne grapes (usually available at markets that carry seasonal fruits). A perfect marriage of the delicacies of the season.

Apple Shape, Pear Shape-It’s All Good Health

The shapes, scents and colors of fall are arriving. Among them are tree ripened fruits like apples and pears. Not only are they delicious in and of themselves, but they make sumptuous additions to salads, main courses and desserts (see the pear and persimmon tartlet post below). In addition to fantastic flavors, apples and pears and other white fleshed fruits may decrease stroke risk.

A Dutch study recently looked to see if there was a relationship between fruits and vegetables of different colors and stroke risk[i]. They examined over 20,000 people aged 20 to 65 who had no previous heart attack or stroke and followed them for about a decade. The data was self-reported. While the stroke rate was only about 1% overall, those who consumed significant amounts of white fleshed fruits and vegetables had that risk lowered by 52%. A consumption of only 25 grams reduced risk by 9%.  A single pear is about 140 grams.

So an apple a day may not only keep the doctor away, but the whole stroke intervention team. That’s a tart I can support.

---

[i] (Oude Griep, Verschuren, Kromhout, Ocké, & Geleijnse, 2011)